ACE, GOOSE, CRIS – CAN SHERRY GET FANCY?
22 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2015
{ planet grape }
NO BAD RAP FOR THE UNDERAPPRECIATED WINE FROM ANDALUCÍA
by Catherine Fallis, MS
Ace, Goose, Cris—
Can Sherry Get Fancy?
Can Sherry Get Fancy?
LET’S FACE IT, THE STATE OF
Sherry is a sad one. Producers struggle to keep this staid, hand-crafted, under-loved and under-
priced product alive. Marketing campaigns fall flat. Label descriptions get more complicated and
selections multiply, making data entry and warehouse picking a nightmare. No matter how you sell
it, Sherry is not sexy.
Australian rapper Iggy Azalea calls for Ace, Goose and Cris in “Fancy.” Why not add Tío Pepe? After
all, it’s the best-selling dry sherry nobody’s heard of. “Who that? Who that? Thatdo that, do that?” With no reputation, it can’t be uncool. Uncool, non-conformist, like the original ball-capped, bearded, skinny-jeaned hipster, who is being edged out by today’s Ubered, Tindered, manbunned
lumbersexual. Rappers went mainstream. Hipsters went mainstream. Why not Sherry? After all, for
mixologists especially, Sherry is a blank space, baby, and I’ll write your name.
Here are a few recommendations from “GB,” or González Byass. Sommeliers, take note. These are
amazing for coursing out in tasting menus and with the $ you save you can pop for the big reds.
Mixologists—whatever tickles your fancy, go for it! They are in order from dry to sweet.
González Byass “Tío Pepe” Fino,
Jerez-Xérès-Sherry D.O. ($17.99)
Rich, briney, fruity and piercing, this taste
of salty sea breeze and lemon drops is
unique, refreshing, dry, and lingering. Fino
is the lightest, driest, and least nutty of
them all. Fino is the finest, I like to say.
González Byass “Viña AB”
Amontillado Seco Palomino, Jerez-
Xérès-Sherry D.O. ($23.99) This is a
step up from Tío Pepe Fino Sherry, and a
good way to explore the next level. Here
there are brisk salty along with caramel
oak and yeasty oxidative notes. Serve
with Spanish cured meats and cheeses.
González Byass “Del Duque” 30 Year
VORS Amontillado, Jerez-Xérès-
Sherry D.O. ($49.99, 375 ml.) Aged for
30 years, this rich, dry 100% Palomino
Sherry offers pungent, intense notes of
fruitcake, caramel, honey, rising bread
and toasted nuts. Serve with earthy
cheeses or with paté de foie on pistachio
crackers or crusty bread.
González Byass “Cristina” Oloroso
Abocado Palomino–Pedro Ximénez,
Jerez-Xérès-Sherry D.O. ($23.99)
This Fig Newton–like and intensely
nutty medium-sweet Sherry packs a
punch. Enjoy with soft cheeses or delicate
pastries.
González Byass “Solera 1847” Cream,
Jerez-Xérès-Sherry D.O. ($23.99)
This rich sweet cream Sherry (technically
an oloroso dulce) is a blend of
75% Palomino and 25% Pedro Ximénez.
It is round and velvety with notes of
rum raisin ice cream, vanilla bean and
chocolate-covered almonds. Enjoy with
desserts or a nice cigar.
González Byass “Nectar” PX Dulce,
Jerez-Xérès-Sherry D.O. Andalucia
($23.99) This dessert Sherry, a young
PX, is ideal for any holiday table with its
crowd pleasing notes of dark bitter and
sweet milk chocolate, hazelnut chocolate
spread and vanilla.
González Byass Sherries are imported by Vin Divino
