Chenin Blanc

Chenin Blanc was cultivated from the ninth century in the Anjou region of France’s Loire Valley, and since the mid 1600’s in South Africa. Rabelais wrote about this varietal. While at its pinnacle in the Loire, much of what is produced in South Africa, where it goes by the name of Steen, and in North and South America, is simple, dependable, fruity white. New Zealand versions have the same kick of high natural acidity found only in the Loire versions so far. Quite often Botrytis Cinerea, the technical term for what is known in the wine industry as Noble Rot, is encouraged. This is a beneficial mold that reduces perfectly healthy grapes into shriveled up, slimy little masses of pulp. The benevolent twin of a much more common fungus known as grey rot, this noble mold gives the wine toffee, nutty, pheromone-like, and floral qualities.

Chenin Blanc even within the confines of the Loire Valley, where it is known as Pineau de la Loire, is mind-boggling in it’s ability to shine as a fresh and fruity Vouvray or Mountlouis, an off-dry Vouvray Moelleux, a sweet, late harvest Coteaux du Layon, a dry, rich, botrytis-imbued Savennieres, and dry, off-dry, or even sweet Sparkling Saumur. In general, the French versions share a bit of that grassy, herbal edge found in Loire Sauvignon Blancs, that same brilliant acidity, but sometime have a slightly musty or even off-putting lanolin/petrol aroma. The better versions have a capacity for very long aging.  Chenin blanc is blended with mauzac and chardonnay in Limoux, a delicious and very unique sparkling wine from the south of France.

Jan Van Riebeeck introduced the first vines to the Cape in 1655. Early documents refer to three varieties: Groendruif (Semillon), Fransdruif and Steen. Steen first came to prominence in the first half of the twentieth century as a base for South African brandy. In the 1960s, Lieberstein, a semi-sweet blend of Steen and Clairette Blanche, enjoyed phenomenal success. It was, for a while, the world’s best-selling single brand of wine. At a different level, but just as spectacular, Nederburg Edelkeur, a Chenin blanc Noble Late Harvest, is consistently ranked amongst the finest dessert wines of the world. Jim Clark calls South African Chenin Blanc

“Pinot Grigio in a hula skirt.”

Chenin Banc: Green apple, bosc pear, quince, musk melon, honey, wet cement, slate, lanolin, petrol, occasionally an herbaceous note, vibrant acidity, dry to sweet, still and sparkling.

Chenin Blanc: Loire Valley, Stellenbosch, Paarl, Central Valley, Columbia Valley.

Nederburg Edelkeur Chenin Blanc Late Harvest Paarl (South Africa)

Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch (South Africa)

Bellingham Old Orchard Chenin Blanc Paarl (South Africa)

Raats Old Vine Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch (South Africa)

Dry Creek Vineyards Chenin Blanc Clarksburg California (USA)

Snoqualmie Vineyards Columbia Valley Washington (USA)

Domaine Pichot Vouvray Loire Valley (France)